India: From the Palaces of Rajasthan to the Beaches of Goa

As always, it’s important to say that whilst I’ve visited India several times, I’ve only seen a small part of the country. It’s a vast place with over a billion people, stretching from the Himalayan foothills in the north to the beaches of the south. I hope this India travel guide does it justice, as I have truly loved my experiences there.

If Mumbai is the start of my journeys into India, then Goa is the end, so I’ll save Goa for last. First, let’s head north into the land of deserts and palaces: Rajasthan.

Travelling North: Udaipur, Jodhpur and Jaipur

Rajasthan is known as the Land of Kings, and this is the India of the imagination, with desert forts, marble palaces and cities painted in shades of blue and gold.

Udaipur

Udaipur is often called the City of Lakes, and some people call it the Venice of the East. It was founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II, the ruler of Mewar, who chose this spot beside the shimmering waters of Lake Pichola for his new capital. Surrounded by the green Aravalli Hills, it feels like a world away from the noise of Mumbai, and it’s one of the most romantic cities I’ve ever visited.

Towering over the eastern shore of the lake is the City Palace, the largest palace complex in Rajasthan. It was built and expanded by successive rulers over nearly four hundred years. Inside, it’s a maze of courtyards, balconies and towers decorated with mirrored mosaics, coloured glass and intricate paintings. From the upper terraces, you get a sweeping view over the rooftops and out across the lake. It was super busy when I visited, so I enjoyed the view of the palace from outside more than wandering through the crowds inside.

Floating in the middle of Lake Pichola is the Lake Palace, a gleaming white marble palace that seems to rise straight out of the water. It was built in the 1740s as a royal summer retreat and is now one of the most luxurious hotels in the world. Bond fans may recognise it from the 1983 film Octopussy, much of which was filmed in Udaipur.

The best way to see Udaipur is from the water. A boat trip around Lake Pichola takes you past the Lake Palace and out to Jag Mandir, another island palace. Late in the afternoon, the light turns golden and the palaces glow against the hills. As the sun goes down, find a rooftop restaurant overlooking the lake and watch the city lights come on and reflect across the water.

Jodhpur

If Udaipur is the city of romance, then Jodhpur is the city of drama. It’s known as the Blue City, because the old town is a jumble of houses painted in every shade of blue imaginable. Nobody quite agrees on why. Some say the colour originally marked the homes of the Brahmins, the priestly caste, while others say it keeps the houses cool or keeps insects away. Whatever the reason, the sight of all that blue spreading out beneath the desert sky is unforgettable.

Rising above it all is Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest and most imposing forts in India. It was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, who also gave the city its name. The fort sits on a sheer rocky outcrop around 120 metres above the city, and its walls seem to grow straight out of the cliffs. As you climb up through its series of massive gates, look out for the marks left by cannonballs from ancient battles. Inside, the palaces are filled with exquisite carved latticework, royal treasures, paintings and weapons. The view from the ramparts over the Blue City is one of the most spectacular in India.

Not far from the fort is Jaswant Thada, a beautiful white marble memorial built in 1899 for Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. The marble is so thin in places that it glows when the sun shines through it. On the other side of the city, the grand Umaid Bhawan Palace was completed in the 1940s and is one of the largest private residences in the world. Part of it is still home to the royal family, part is a luxury hotel, and part is a museum.

Back down in the old city, the area around the Clock Tower and Sardar Market is a riot of colour and noise. The stalls are piled high with spices, textiles, silver jewellery and sweets, and it’s the perfect place to get lost for an afternoon. Afterwards, sit down for a cup of masala chai, or try a makhaniya lassi, the thick and creamy saffron-flavoured yoghurt drink that Jodhpur is famous for.

Jaipur

No trip through Rajasthan would be complete without Jaipur, the state capital. It’s known as the Pink City, because in 1876 the old town was painted a terracotta pink to welcome the Prince of Wales, and it has stayed that colour ever since. The city was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, a ruler with a passion for astronomy, and it was one of the first planned cities in India.

Just outside the city, on a ridge in the Aravalli Hills, stands Amber Fort. Built from honey-coloured sandstone and marble, it was the seat of the Kachwaha rulers before they moved their capital down to Jaipur. Inside, you climb steep stone staircases between courtyards, gateways and palaces, and from the ramparts there are fantastic views over the surrounding hills. Keep an eye out for the langur monkeys, which sit on the walls as if they own the place.

For more monkey business, head to Galta Ji, a temple complex tucked into a rocky gorge in the hills east of the city. It’s better known as the Monkey Temple, thanks to the hundreds of monkeys that live there. Pilgrims come to bathe in its sacred spring-fed pools, and the weathered temples and pavilions make it one of the most atmospheric places in Rajasthan.

If you’d rather leave the driving to someone else, this full-day Jaipur tour starts at Amber Fort and finishes at Galta Ji, with hotel pickup, a guide and entrance fees included.

Delhi

From the desert cities of Rajasthan, I made my way to Delhi, India’s sprawling capital. It’s a huge, overwhelming city of more than thirty million people. But what fascinates me most is that Delhi isn’t really one city at all. Over the centuries, empire after empire built its capital here, each one on top of or beside the last. Historians often talk about the “seven cities of Delhi”, and as you explore, you can feel those layers of history everywhere, with ancient ruins, Mughal mosques and grand colonial boulevards all within a few miles of each other.

Old Delhi

The beating heart of the city is Old Delhi, which was built in the seventeenth century by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, the same emperor who built the Taj Mahal. He called it Shahjahanabad, and at its centre he built the Red Fort, a vast complex of palaces and gardens surrounded by towering walls of red sandstone. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and every year on Independence Day, the Prime Minister of India raises the national flag and gives a speech from its ramparts.

Just down the road is Jama Masjid, one of the largest mosques in India. It was also built by Shah Jahan, and its vast courtyard can hold around 25,000 worshippers. If you’re feeling energetic, you can climb one of the minarets for a fantastic view over the rooftops of Old Delhi.

Between the two runs Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest and busiest markets in India. It’s a total assault on the senses. The narrow lanes are crammed with people, rickshaws, scooters, cows and porters carrying impossible loads on their heads, while the stalls sell everything from wedding saris to silver jewellery. The best way to experience it is from the back of a cycle rickshaw, as your driver weaves through the chaos. Don’t miss Khari Baoli, said to be the largest spice market in Asia, where the air is so thick with chilli that you’ll be coughing and sneezing all the way down the street.

For food, head to Paranthe Wali Gali, a narrow lane that has been serving stuffed, deep-fried flatbreads since the nineteenth century. You can choose fillings ranging from potato and paneer to banana and even bitter gourd!

Humayun’s Tomb and the Qutub Minar

Two of my favourite places in Delhi are a little further south. Humayun’s Tomb is the magnificent red-and-white mausoleum of the second Mughal emperor, built in the 1570s and commissioned by his widow, Empress Bega Begum. It’s set among beautiful formal gardens, and when you see it, it feels strangely familiar. That’s because it was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal, which was built around seventy years later.

Even older is the Qutub Minar, a soaring tower of red sandstone and marble that stands about 73 metres tall. Work began on it at the end of the twelfth century, after the first Muslim rulers of Delhi took control of the city, and it’s still the tallest brick minaret in the world. In the same complex stands a mysterious iron pillar that is more than 1,600 years old, and remarkably, it has barely rusted at all. Scientists are still fascinated by how the ancient metalworkers managed it, which is exactly the kind of puzzle I love to build a story around!

New Delhi

In contrast to the chaos of Old Delhi, New Delhi feels spacious and orderly. It was designed by the British architect Edwin Lutyens and became the capital of British India in 1931. At its heart is a grand ceremonial avenue, with the President’s House at one end and India Gate at the other. India Gate is a huge stone arch that commemorates the soldiers of the British Indian Army who died in the First World War, and their names are carved into its walls. In the evening, it’s lit up, and families gather on the lawns around it to picnic and eat ice cream.

One of the most moving experiences I had in Delhi was at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, a beautiful Sikh temple with a golden dome. Every day, volunteers cook and serve free meals to thousands of people of every faith and background, all sitting side by side on the floor. Visitors are welcome to join in, or even to help in the kitchens, which we did, alongside others from all across the city and the world.

Agra and the Taj Mahal

From Delhi, it’s only a few hours to Agra by bus or train. For a century, it was the capital of the Mughal Empire, and it’s home to the most famous building in India and perhaps the world.

The Taj Mahal

I’d seen the Taj Mahal in photographs a thousand times before I went, and I worried that it couldn’t possibly live up to the hype. It did.

I’ll never forget heading to a rooftop restaurant for a sundowner. As I climbed the steps and saw the Taj on the skyline for the first time, I literally froze. It stood so bold and so ornate against the concrete jumble of the rest of the city. Then, as the sun set and the colours danced across the marble, it became something else entirely.

Then there’s the story behind it, because the Taj Mahal is, at its heart, a love story. It was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who also built the Red Fort in Delhi, as a tomb for his beloved wife, Mumtaz Mahal. She died in 1631 while giving birth to their fourteenth child, and the emperor was said to be so heartbroken that his hair turned grey. Work on the Taj began the following year. It took around twenty thousand craftsmen more than twenty years to complete, and a thousand elephants are said to have been used to carry the building materials.

The tomb is built from white marble brought from Makrana in Rajasthan, more than 300 kilometres away. Up close, you can see that the walls are inlaid with thousands of semi-precious stones, including jade, lapis lazuli, carnelian and turquoise, arranged into delicate flowers and vines. The whole complex is designed to be perfectly symmetrical. The only thing that breaks that symmetry is Shah Jahan’s own tomb, which was squeezed in beside his wife’s after his death.

If you’d like an expert to bring all of this to life, this Taj Mahal sunrise tour includes your entry ticket, a private guide and hotel pickup in Agra or Delhi, so you can see the marble glow in the early-morning light.

The Baby Taj

On the opposite bank of the Yamuna River is one of Agra’s hidden gems, the Tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah, better known as the Baby Taj. It was built between 1622 and 1628 by the Empress Nur Jahan, the powerful wife of the emperor Jahangir, for her father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg. He was a Persian nobleman who rose to become one of the most important men in the empire, and his title, Itimad-ud-Daulah, means “Pillar of the State”. There’s a lovely family connection here, too, because he was also the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, the empress for whom the Taj Mahal itself was built.

The Baby Taj was the first Mughal tomb to be built entirely from white marble, and it was one of the first buildings to be decorated with the delicate stone inlay that would later make the Taj Mahal so famous. Many people see it as a kind of first draft for its more famous neighbour. It’s much smaller, but it’s every bit as beautiful, with every surface covered in intricate patterns of flowers, vines, cypress trees and wine cups. Best of all, it sees only a fraction of the crowds, so you can often wander around in peace. After the bustle of the Taj Mahal, I found it a wonderfully calm place to sit and admire the craftsmanship up close.

Agra Fort

Don’t leave Agra without visiting Agra Fort, a huge red sandstone fortress about two and a half kilometres from the Taj. It was the main residence of the Mughal emperors, and it’s another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It also holds the saddest part of Shah Jahan’s story. In 1658, his son Aurangzeb seized the throne and imprisoned his father in the fort. Shah Jahan spent the last eight years of his life there, and legend says he would gaze out across the river from his marble tower at the tomb of his beloved wife. When he died, he was finally laid to rest beside her.

Varanasi

If there’s one place in India that has stayed with me more than any other, it’s Varanasi. It sits on the banks of the Ganges and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history that stretches back thousands of years.

The city is known by several names. Hindus have long called it Kashi, the City of Light, and many people still call it Banaras. According to Hindu belief, it was founded by the god Shiva himself, and anyone who dies here is freed from the endless cycle of death and rebirth. For that reason, people travel from all over India to spend their final days in Varanasi, and families bring their loved ones here to be cremated beside the sacred river.

The Ghats

Life in Varanasi revolves around the ghats, the great stone steps that lead down to the water along the western bank of the Ganges. There are more than eighty of them, stretching for several kilometres, and each one has its own history and purpose. From dawn until dusk, they’re alive with activity. Pilgrims bathe in the holy water, priests perform rituals under parasols, men wash clothes, boys play cricket, sadhus sit in meditation, and cows wander among it all.

The best way to see them is from the river. Take a boat out at sunrise, when the mist hangs over the water and the first light turns the ancient buildings gold. All along the bank, people are already bathing and praying, and as you drift past, it feels as though you’re watching a scene that has hardly changed in centuries.

Manikarnika Ghat

The most sacred ghat of all is Manikarnika, the main cremation ghat. Here, funeral pyres burn day and night, and it’s said that the fires have not gone out for thousands of years. Bodies wrapped in bright cloth are carried through the narrow lanes on bamboo stretchers, dipped in the Ganges and then placed on the pyres, while the families look on. It is an extraordinarily powerful place to witness. Death here is not hidden away as it is at home. It happens openly, as a natural and sacred part of life.

It’s important to be respectful. You should never take photographs of the cremations, and you should be wary of anyone who offers to show you around and then demands a “donation” for the wood.

The Ganga Aarti

Every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, crowds gather for the Ganga Aarti, a spectacular ceremony of thanks to the river. Young priests in saffron robes stand in a line on the steps, swinging great brass lamps blazing with fire in perfect unison, while bells ring, conch shells sound and the chanting rises into the night. You can watch from the steps, but I think the best view is from a boat on the water. At the end of the ceremony, people float small leaf boats filled with flowers and candles out onto the river, and soon the whole of the Ganges is glittering with tiny flames.

If you’d like a local guide to show you around, this three-hour evening tour combines a boat ride on the Ganges, a visit to Manikarnika Ghat and the Ganga Aarti ceremony.

The Old City and Sarnath

Behind the ghats lies a maze of narrow lanes, barely wide enough for a person and a cow to pass each other. It’s full of tiny temples, shrines, sweet shops and silk weavers. Varanasi is famous for its silk, and Banarasi saris are among the most prized in India. While you’re exploring, stop for a lassi served in a little clay cup.

Just outside the city is Sarnath, where the Buddha is said to have given his first sermon after reaching enlightenment, around 2,500 years ago. It’s one of the most sacred places in Buddhism, and the great Dhamek Stupa still marks the spot. After the noise and intensity of Varanasi, it’s a wonderfully peaceful place to spend an afternoon.

Goa and a Journey’s End

If Mumbai is where my Indian adventures begin, then Goa is where they end. After weeks of crowded trains, chaotic cities and sensory overload, there’s nothing quite like arriving on the coast, feeling the sea breeze, and slowing right down.

On my last trip, I travelled down from Mumbai on the Konkan Railway, and it’s one of the most beautiful train journeys in India. The line runs south along the coast, squeezed between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, crossing rivers on high bridges and plunging through dozens of tunnels. Outside the window, you’ll see paddy fields, palm groves, little villages and glimpses of the sea. My first-class ticket was very reasonably priced, and it also got me breakfast and as much chai as I could drink.

A Little Piece of Portugal

Goa is India’s smallest state, and it feels quite unlike anywhere else in the country. That’s because, for around 450 years, it was a Portuguese colony. The Portuguese arrived in 1510, and they didn’t leave until 1961, when India finally took Goa back, fourteen years after the rest of the country gained its independence. That long history has left its mark everywhere, from the whitewashed churches and colourful colonial houses to the food, the music and the relaxed, laid-back way of life.

The best place to see that history is Old Goa, which was once the capital of the Portuguese East. At its height, it was said to rival Lisbon in size and grandeur. Today, most of the old city has vanished, but its magnificent churches still stand, and together they make up another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most famous is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which holds the remains of St Francis Xavier, one of the founders of the Jesuit order. His body lies in a silver casket, and roughly once every ten years, it’s brought out for public display, drawing pilgrims from all over the world. Just across the square is the Sé Cathedral, one of the largest churches in Asia, whose great bell is known as the Golden Bell for its rich tone.

In Panjim, the state capital, take a wander through Fontainhas, the old Latin Quarter. Its narrow lanes are lined with houses painted in yellow, blue and green, with red-tiled roofs, wooden balconies and hand-painted tiles, and in places it feels just like strolling through a little corner of Portugal.

Where I’ve Stayed in Goa

It’s important to understand that Goa isn’t just one place, but a whole region. It has dozens of towns and villages spread along its coast and inland, each with its own vibe.

Arambol, right at the northern tip of Goa, is wonderful for its laid-back hippie vibe. It still has the bohemian spirit that first drew travellers here in the 1960s, with yoga classes, beach cafés, and a drum circle that gathers on the sand to play as the sun goes down. Just behind the beach, there’s even a little freshwater lake, fed by springs. I stayed in Arambol for a week, living in a small place right on the beach, and every night I fell asleep to the sound of the waves breaking on the rocks. It was wonderful. It’s also where I started work on my book The Templar Enigma. Although the story doesn’t take place in India, I always think about it whenever I go back.

Baga is the party place. People come from all over India, and tourists from all over the world, for the bars, clubs and music here. Its famous Tito’s Lane is packed with revellers until the early hours, and on Saturday nights, the bustling night market at nearby Arpora is a riot of food stalls, live music and handicrafts. It’s busy, noisy and fun, if that’s what you’re looking for.

Anjuna is another laid-back place, and I’ve really enjoyed staying here. It was one of the original hippie hangouts in the 1960s and 70s, and it later became famous for its trance parties. Today, it’s best known for its Wednesday flea market, where you can browse everything from jewellery and textiles to spices and souvenirs. The beach itself is rocky in places, which makes it one of the most beautiful spots on the coast to watch the sunset.

And finally, there’s Palolem, down in the far south in the district of Canacona. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches in Goa, a perfect crescent of soft golden sand fringed with swaying palm trees and colourful beach huts. The calm, shallow water is ideal for swimming and kayaking, and the local fishermen will happily take you out on boat trips to spot dolphins or feed the local birds of prey. After the bustle of the north, it’s the perfect place to slow down and watch the sun sink into the sea.

Goan Food

Goan food is a delicious blend of Indian and Portuguese flavours. The classic dish is fish curry with rice, made with coconut, tamarind and plenty of spice, and you’ll find it on almost every menu. You may be surprised to learn that vindaloo comes from Goa, too. Its name comes from the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d’alhos, meat marinated in wine and garlic, which Goan cooks transformed with vinegar and fiery chillies. For dessert, try bebinca, a rich, layered coconut cake. And if you’re feeling brave, try a glass of feni, the local spirit distilled from cashew fruit or coconut sap. It’s very strong!

Final Thoughts

Lying on a beach in Goa at the end of a trip, I always find myself thinking back over everything I’ve seen. I think of the chaos of Mumbai, the palaces of Rajasthan, the Mughal splendour of Delhi and Agra, and the fires burning beside the Ganges in Varanasi. India is a country of extremes and of contrasts. It can be loud, overwhelming and exhausting, but it’s also beautiful, welcoming and endlessly fascinating. It changed my life back in 2011, and every time I return, it surprises me all over again.

I’ve only scratched the surface of this vast country, and there’s so much more I want to see. I hope this article has inspired you to discover India for yourself. If you’d like to read about more of my adventures, take a look at my other location and travel guides, including Kathmandu, just across the border in Nepal. And when I go back, as I surely will, I’ll be sure to add my new adventures here.